11: Gros Morne (9/23-9/24)

Our stay in Gros Morne was quite different from what we'd anticipated.  For one thing, the weather changed our plans - pouring rain one day, lighter rain the next, not so cold, thankfully, but dreary, dreary, dreary, not unusual for this time of year on Newfoundland.  We feel lucky we got in a good sunset the first night here.

The park's visitors center was a font of information, both local and in planning how to spend all of our NL time. One ranger was from St. John's, and she pretty much led us to decide we will make the drive all the way over there and back.  The rangers also helped us decide some of the trails we'd wanted to try just wouldn't work, between our stamina and the weather.  Allen continued his moose hunt, finding one he could hug at the visitors center.

Our campground was filled with screaming and hoots of laughter one morning, as the owner, a high school gym teacher, had a class spend the day in kayaks, canoes, and paddleboats on the campground lake.  Yep, some got wet.  A wonderful walking path ringed the entire lake, along which provided brilliant fall colors for a scavenger hunt of sorts.

Found the seafood shop at the end of the Rocky Harbour road, where we bought cod filets for the home-made chowder I later produced (and shared leftovers with the camp cat who ate all but the potatoes).  Also on sale there were seal flippers for $2.00/pack.  I innocently asked if these were doggie chew toys; turns out they have been, and in some places still are, a reliable mainstay, especially when boiled, skinned and de-padded and made into a potpie with local carrots, potatoes, and turnips.

Following are a few snaps for no reason just because this place is so beautiful, fall is sneaking in, and the landforms are incredible....

Recommended in Rocky Harbour was our new favorite lunch place, Jackie's. Not much to see on the outside, but right on the water and all the ways there are to enjoy cod.




End of the road in Rocky Harbour.

Our days here brought oceanside trails, mosquito clouds (we thought they would be gone by now), a moose dinner at Earl's for Allen (cod tongues for me), an evening's drive to Norris Point to look for moose (zilch sighted), and a visit to the Norris Point ER for me (UTI that just won't quit).  The last has colored my days a bit, unfortunately, cost of doing business, I guess.  Cutest little hospital we ever did see, however, about the size of an elementary school at home.  And more culinary pleasures include local beer names in honor of my brother and toutons, the fried-dough-and-molasses-and-lingonberry ("partridgeberry" here) wonder dish.

Ocean trail hike was just stunning.  Can't believe plants can grow on the rocky beaches.  Lots of rain the day before, so trail was runny.  Scavenger hunt was loaded with sea urchins.

Enough driftwood for crafters worldwide

We're still finding raspberries from time to time, a treat.

And then there is the tuckamore. "Buffeted by storms and onshore winds, coastal white spruce and balsam fir trees develop into a contorted tuckamore forest. Salt spray and desiccation kill exposed buds. Growth occurs only on the protected side of these trees, so they seem to lean away from the sea as they grow." It's an elfin playground as far as we're concerned.